Grades

Grading is necessary to select the most suitable leather for each application. Large patterns (pieces of leather used in the manufacturing of leathergoods, shoes furniture etc) demand a clean cutting surface (no or very few defects, scratches, holes, brands etc). Smaller patterns can be cut avoiding defects in lower quality leather. Even lower qualities can be used where the leather is unseen, for example shoe linings.

Grading also takes into account size range, thickness, colour match and temper (the feel of the leather).

Standard Substance

In lighter leathers (not sole leather and harness leather) substance or thickness is measured in millimetres in Europe and Asia, and in ounces in the US (1oz = 4mm).

Grain

The texture of the surface of the leather.

Tight Break

Flexing the leather creates small tight creases which readily disappear.

Full Chrome

A tannage using Chromic Oxide (Cr2O3). This is trivalent chrome, not to be confused with hexavalent chrome which is toxic.

Semi Chrome

A mixed tannage comprising vegetable tanned leather retanned with chrome.

Retannage

A second supplementary tanning process that gives leather special properties.

Wattle and Myrobalans

These are both vegetable tanning materials. Wattle is sourced from Wattle bark and Myrobalans is made from Myrobalanus nuts.

Side Leather

Hides from cattle are cut down the middle into two sides for ease of processing.

Aniline

Leather which is coloured by aniline dyes in a drum or bath without pigment. This enhances the natural grain and texture of the skin.

Milled Hides

Hides that are tumbled in a drum to produce a 'grained' effect.

Burnishing

The darkening effect of rubbing the grain surface.

Edge Trim Characteristic

A clean cut edge without loose fibres.